Search This Blog

This is a blog about Peggy and Bob's Great Loop adventure which began in September 2008 in Lake Superior aboard "Baby Grand," their 32' Grand Banks trawler.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Green Turtle Cay 4-14-09
















It is so wonderful to wake up to the quiet of a secluded anchorage sunrise. Manjack Cay is protected from all winds except for southerlies and these are forecast for 20 knots the next few days with clocking conditions which will make this anchorage very uncomfortable at times. We don’t want to push further west to Great Sale Cay either as that does not offer great southerly protection.

We made the decision to travel east 5 miles back to Green Turtle Cay which is favored with two good harbors, White Sound and Black Sound. We decided to tie up for a few days at Black Sound Marina because at a $1.00 per foot and no obligation to use their metered water or electricity, this is a very economical choice. We visited Green Turtle Cay only briefly on 3/13 and stayed then at the pricier Green Turtle Club and Marina in White Sound. I did a 3 mile walk there on 4/14 and it certainly is appealing with its yellow buildings, multiple restaurants, cottages and pool, but there were very few boats at the dock, and more on the cheaper mooring balls. We are not alone in trying to make the dollar stretch as far as possible.

Green Turtle Cay is not prettified like Elbow Cay but has a very authentic Bahamian ambiance. One of the earliest Loyalist settlements was here on New Plymouth and this heritage is celebrated in Memorial Square. It is a working island with 2 hardware stores, a massive travel lift at the Abaco Shipyard as well as 3 grocery shops, 5 churches and a few good restaurants, including Miss Emily’s Blue Bar for grouper and lobster and McIntosh’s for baked goods. Because it is west of the Whale, boaters and tourists are usually hurrying through to get to the Hub of the Abacos and do not usually linger here. We met a number of boaters who will store their boats on the hard at Abaco Shipyard and swear that their boats are more protected here from hurricanes than in FL.

Anthony is one of the owners of Black Sound Marina and told us a little about the island’s colorful past. In the 1980’s before the US had a lot of banking regulations, anyone could show up with a suitcase full of money for an offshore account at Barclay’s Bank. With its many inlets and harbors, this cay was a popular pirate hang-out and people still search for lost treasure. In the 19th century, many residents dismantled their homes and shipped them to Key West and you can definitely see the similarity minus the tourist hoopla.
Winter boaters are making plans to head back to FL and looking at whatever weather information we can get. We are here with a large contingent of Chesapeake sailboaters and we have been trading information on weather and anchorages. We will have to go back to West End and it looks like we will probably start that trek on Thursday, 4/16.

Island Easter 4-12-09




























We were up at 5:15 am to make sunrise Easter service on the beach at Orchid Bay Pavilion. This required the sleepy Captain to get up at this ungodly hour, a dinghy trip with headlamps through the dark 2 foot seas to the dock, a 1 mile walk and then when we were lost in this gated community, a golf cart trip with Edna to the beach pavilion. It was certainly all worth the effort to praise the Lord on this special day and see the cross backlit with the cloudy sunrise.

On our way back to the boat, we stopped at the Art CafĂ© for a well-deserved nosh and coffee. We listened to the Cruisers’ Net and heard the weather forecast for the next few days. Decision time—should we do the often treacherous Whale crossing today in easy conditions or continue to stay on Guana or Treasure Cay? Practicality ruled the day and after having 2 cups of high test coffee, this decaf gal was pumped-- I felt that I could even swim the Whale today.

We left the Guana mooring at 9:30am so that we could make the Whale crossing at slack tide before 10:45 high tide. With N/NW 15 knot winds and 1-2 foot seas on the front quarter, the Whale was definitely at a “Favorable 4” out of 1-5 (“flat as a shingle”) and no mix master seas like we experienced on 3/14. We were again joined by a whole flotilla of sailboats and we fit right in as we had our riding sail up to help steady us.

We journeyed 18 miles to Manjack Cay which is a secluded protected anchorage with miles of pristine ocean beaches and very few homes. Bill and Leslie own most of the land, welcome trespassers and ask only that dogs be leashed so that their chickens can roam protected. They have a hydroponic garden, offer a free strong internet signal to boats anchored in the bay and have cut trails to the ocean through the thick mangrove forest. We met another land owner, John from Michigan, who was walking the “Root #1” trail looking for more poisonwood to trim back. Be wary of this tree as it can cause a massive allergic reaction and his antidote is Crystal deodorant from health food stores rather than dosing with prednisone.

After this discussion, we preceded very carefully single file to the ocean beach about a mile further. It is so refreshing to meet people who will share their corner of paradise with all of us. The anchorage filled up with 17 sailboats and 3 power boats. It was good to reconnect with Bob and Lorraine from “Scaramouche” and Mike and Lorraine from “Elizabeth Rose.”

Another World 4-11-09











We are moored in Fishers Bay on Great Guana Cay and are right across from Dive Guana. With today’s forecast for flat seas and warm temps, we decided to go snorkeling with Captain Troy and crew, Calvin, Shem and Troy’s 10 year old daughter, Isabella, who will definitely be the boss of this boat in a few years.

We were joined today by Linda and George from “Chez Nous”, a beautiful 42 foot French sailing catamaran. They have been live-aboards for the past 2 years, will go up to the Chesapeake this summer and then take a long voyage through the Caribbean down to South America and then take the boat across the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.

Linda joined Bob and me snorkeling while George did some scuba diving with Troy. Calvin was in charge of the snorkel group and gave us some great tips for avoiding water in the mask and tube. Notice that we are in wetsuits even though the water here is 73 degrees. I don’t know if I will ever be able to just jump into 60-65 degree Great Lakes water ever again. We had a great time and saw so many fish on the barrier reef at Pillars and Grouper Alley. I wish that I had an underwater camera to show you exactly what we saw but I borrowed some photo shots to show you what it looked like--French grunts, parrotfish, grouper, angelfish.

As we hovered above, we could also see the scuba divers 40 feet below serpentining through caves and around the reefs and leaving a stream of huge bubbles that were fun to catch. The scuba divers did not see the 6 foot reef shark swimming under the dive boat, but we snorkelers did up close and personal and certainly got our money’s worth.

This is Easter weekend and Nippers on Guana Cay has a unique twist on the Easter egg hunt tradition. They are going to hide plastic Easter eggs filled with prizes in the water for the kids and, in the reef just offshore for the adults.

Blog Archive

Baby Grand

Baby Grand