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This is a blog about Peggy and Bob's Great Loop adventure which began in September 2008 in Lake Superior aboard "Baby Grand," their 32' Grand Banks trawler.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Chambly Canal and Richelieu River 6-15-10

















We sadly say goodbye to Lake Champlain, Juanita’s omelet breakfasts at Burton Island, walks around Point la Roche State Park in Deep Bay and seeing so many of our family members here last summer and this spring, but adventure is calling. We cast-off for Canada on Sunday, 6/13 on a sunny 72 degree morning and followed the Canadian geese back to their home. We had no difficulty clearing customs, were not asked about produce and alcohol which we had whittled down to the legal entry limit (darn) but were quizzed on whether we were packing firearms.

It is 68.6 nautical miles from the US-Canadian border to Sorel where the Richelieu meets the St. Lawrence River. The Chambly Canal has 9 locks for a total drop of 84 feet as you proceed north. That’s the stats but the experience transports you to another world of picturesque hand operated locks and bridges along a narrow canal lined with bike and pedestrian pathways. We entered this quaint canal in Saint Jean de Richelieu where watching boats locking through is great Sunday entertainment. The lockmasters are very helpful, are bilingual and will give you the bathroom combo which will help save room in your holding tank. We purchased the Parks Canada Locking and Mooring (docking) Pass for $8.80 per foot each, and with the 5% exchange rate difference with Canada, we paid $535 to lock and moor through the entire Canadian lock system this summer. Such a deal!

Along the river are small villages with prominent church steeples, historic homes and lovely bistros—all with a decidedly Quebecois flair. It is like going to France without leaving North America. Chambly is a wonderful stop at the end of Lock 1. We did the entire canal in the pouring rain and this picture is from the next day. What a difference a day makes! Chambly has an historic district with markers in French, good restaurants (look for “table d’hôte” or fixed price offerings), 2 huge grocery stores (Maxi and Metro Plus (both within walking distance of the lock wall) and tours of Fort Chambly. It was built to protect the land and trade from the British and I think Bob is ready to do battle. Voyageurs loaded with beaver pelts traveled these waters from Montreal to Albany in 9 days which is amazing considering our aqua tourist speed.

We also stayed on the lock wall at St. Ours surrounded by a quiet park setting. We met so many interesting people here, including an English-speaking bicyclist who gave us tips for our trips to Montreal and Quebec, and Marc, another cyclist who only spoke French. I had purchased but had not really studied French for Cruisers by Kathy Parsons, and armed with this, persistence, a sense of humor, pantomime and our Looper burgee which shows our trip route, we conversed for 20 minutes. He has a catamaran and has also been to the Abacos—it is a small world wherever you go

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