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This is a blog about Peggy and Bob's Great Loop adventure which began in September 2008 in Lake Superior aboard "Baby Grand," their 32' Grand Banks trawler.

Friday, January 16, 2009

People Who Inspire Us 1-15-09
















I would like to introduce you to Frank and Phyllis, a sailing couple we have known since the 1980’s from our home port of Bayfield WI on Lake Superior. They are 80+ years young and are still aboard their 1970’s vintage 32’ Pearson sailboat, PJ. They are an even-keeled couple who do not sweat the small stuff and know how to enjoy life. In the Apostle Islands, Frank and Phyllis were well known as personable, helpful folks with great sailing acumen.

In the mid 1990’s, they led the way for many of us by taking PJ on a 3 year sailing adventure that led them here to FL. Bob and I have had a similar dream for years, but when you are knee deep in the responsibilities of parenting, work and home, it is easy to forget about future plans, but our periodic contact with Frank and Phyllis would rekindle the spark of adventure. They will always be our poster couple of ageless cruisers who really exemplify the credo of their favorite T-shirt, “Life is Good.”

We spent today with Frank and Phyllis and their delightful granddaughter, Gretchen, touring the Edison and Ford Winter Estates in Fort Meyers. This is a must see tour when you are in this area and it offers something for everyone—lush gardens and huge Banyan trees, FL architecture at its best, museum pieces of Edison and Ford’s inventions and a chance to renew your knowledge of these incredible men who changed our world.

Thomas Alva Edison was born in 1847 in Ohio. He had a lot of difficulty with school and his teachers wondered if he could learn. His mother decided to home school him and encouraged him in his constant questioning of how things worked. He set up a lab in the basement and bought chemicals from his profits selling newspapers on the train at age 12, and continued his experimentations at age 16 with knowledge from his job as a telegraph operator.

He was a workaholic throughout his life, required only 4 hours sleep nightly and really exemplified his credo, “Invention is 1% inspiration and 99% perspiration.” Edison is responsible for so many of the underpinnings of our daily lives with light, sound and power technologies (electric lights, dynamos, phonograph, motion picture film and technology, first electric car battery). Edison held thousands of patents, had a major invention every 6 months and minor ones every 10 days. It is pretty amazing that he developed the phonograph since he himself was 80% deaf.

Edison and Ford were like-minded inventors who enjoyed each others company and enjoyed being neighbors here in Ft. Meyers. Ford had worked in an Edison plant, had developed his Model T prototype, and was encouraged to pursue his dreams by Edison. Years later, Edison became intrigued with finding a botanical alternative to rubber for American cars so that the US would not be dependent on foreign sources which he foresaw as crippling in the event of war or calamity. He devoted his last years to this pursuit, and even though the DuPont company came up with a chemical alternative, neoprene, Edison’s botanical experiments led to other discoveries.

That's what 0ur world really needs right now-- more Edisons and Fords, people with imagination, perseverance and a can do attitude to examine our complex energy problems and come up with creative solutions.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Fort Meyers Beach 1-14-09
















Tuesday, 1-13 was a rock and rollin’ day of wind and rain here at Fort Meyers Beach. It was a good day to do oodles of laundry and get to those darn inside jobs that you postpone all the time. When the wind kicked up to 20 knots, it was time for Bob to batten down the boat with more fenders and lines.

At 4:30pm, there was an urgent call to the Coast Guard that an unoccupied anchored boat had broken loose and was heading down the channel towards our marina. We were all tuned in to Channel 22 to root for the Coasties to save our neighborhood, and with some delays, they did. Why is it important to get the exact color (“white”, “off white”, “beige”) of the boat when they know the location before they deploy a rescue party?

The storm ushered in a “cold” front to FL. My dear readers in the Upper Midwest will gladly trade places with any Floridian who is complaining about an overnight low of above 45 degrees. The newspapers here all feature pictures of proud frozen Midwesterners withstanding below zero temps with stoic Scandinavian aplomb. We salute you but we would not trade places with you right now. Get on a plane and come here quickly. Your life may depend upon it.

We bundled up in solidarity with you and headed out to the beach. Do you like Bob’s pirate look—Johnny Depp watch out! We walked down to Bowditch Point Park which is a nature preserve and we met this curious 15" Gopher tortoise. We stopped for ice cream to further cool down and really feel the cold. Their beach signpost logged Duluth as 1,769 miles away but we have cruised 3,000 miles so far—so much for the inefficiency of boat travel.

We had Captains' Meeting at the marina boaters' lounge. There is a lot of wisdom here and plenty of advice to solve all boating problems. Here's a picture of Jim and Sandy from Footloose.

2 Bridge Day to Fort Meyers Beach 1-12-09
















We got a little later start today due to the diver chain adventure but it was well worth it. 20 feet of chain and 20 feet of rode could have done a lot of damage to Rose’s Pick but luckily a disaster was averted.

Today’s journey was pleasant and we passed the prime cruising areas of Gasparilla Sound, Charlotte Harbor, Pelican Pass, the private island of Useppa, Pine Island Sound, Captiva and Sanibel Islands. I wish we had more time to explore this whole area but since we want to get down to the Keys and are hoping to get out to the Bahamas, we will not be able to explore all these interesting ports now by boat. There was far less boat traffic on this Monday on the GIWW today as the retirees were now onboard.

We were greeted by dolphins today that frolicked in our bow wave and delighted us with their antics. We came to the end of the GIWW today when we went under the Sanibel Causeway Bridge. We passed through the narrow opening into Fort Meyers Beach which took us almost right on the beach but did provide adequate depths. We are staying at Moss Marine and at $1.25 per foot, it is a good deal.

Loose Your Anchor Chain and Rode? 1-12-09


I know that a number of Looper boats lost their anchor, chain and/or rode in some pretty hairy circumstances on the rivers. Imagine Rose and Gary’s surprise when they hired a diver to check out a little “noise” on their boat, Rose’s Pick, and he came up with this hunk of metal today. I know one creative Looper who thought she would add a super magnet to help retrieve anything that might go overboard. Gary must have activated his super duper magnet, aka propeller, that swept up this vintage anchor system from the deep around the Blackburn Bridge yesterday. Gary is entertaining all offers and points given for the most creative use.

Monday, January 12, 2009

Great Ending 1-11-09 (Cape Haze)
















We were all up early but fog held us at the dock until 9:45 when the sun worked its magic. Here’s a picture of the A.M. Captains Meeting as we plan our strategy. Today’s ride on the GIWW has some narrow channels interspersed with long bays and lots of bridges. It takes us along Siesta Key, Venice and into Lemon Bay.

We had hoped to go to Gasparilla Island and tour the island on rented golf carts with Jim and Sandy on Footloose. However, due to the later start, the average speed of only 7mph due to no wake zones and bridges, we had to stay flexible and decide upon a destination under way. We need a clearance of 19.6’ with lowered antennas and Footloose and Rose’s Pick need slightly more room for comfort. Of the 8 bridges, we needed opening for 4 of them. Here’s a picture of Rose’s Pick going through the Blackburn (swing) Bridge.

This was Sunday on the water and like any marine community; EVERYBODY is out, tooling around and enjoying the day. It did get congested out there compared to the usual alone time we have had on the GIWW. Here’s a picture of Rose’s Pick at Circus (bascule) Bridge—that’s the real name and it was an apt description. We were waked a number of times by fast cruisers that do not apparently know the meaning of slow and no wake. Towboat US boats were out helping stranded boaters and they also were being waked by these big boys.

We realized that we could not make Gasparilla Island and called ahead to Palm Island Marina to get docks for the 3 Looper boats for the night. Marina staff was very helpful. The best part of the evening was taking a dip in the pool and Captains Meeting in the hot tub. That’s a good ending.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Sarasota 1-10-09
















With a full moon, there is a low low tide which meant that we could not leave Anna Marie Island until 11 a.m. as evidenced by a number of boats aground in the marina and at anchor. Since we had such a late departure, we decided to take the short hop of 15 miles to Sarasota.

Rose’s Pick joined us again today as we headed out again onto the GIWW which is supposed to have a minimum depth of 6 feet, but with shallow sections bordering it, it is good to be vigilant. We hit 6’2” feet at mile marker G39 but otherwise, had comfortable depths of 8 to12 feet. We pulled into Marina Jack’s Marina which is an upscale marina at $2 per foot but provides great service and amenities. We were glad to meet a former Looper on Lyssa Lin and current Loopers, Jim and Sandy on Footloose.

Saratoga is a very inviting, boat friendly city with a lot of restaurants, shops and points of interest within walking distance of the marina. There is a walking and bike trail and plenty of outdoor dining, even a Tiki Bar along the park. We had a fantastic dinner at Barnacle Bill’s and I highly recommend the bouillabaisse. There is a Whole Foods within walking distance as well as a Saturday Farmer’s Market.

We decided to spend another day here and go to the Marie Selby Botanical Gardens on Saturday. It offered a lush verdant garden along the Gulf complete with a Tea Café and mansion showcasing local botanical art works. The only downside in town was the Harley Davidson rendezvous complete with oldster Wild Hogs revving it up to ear-splitting levels and outdoing each other in leather outfits.

On the Water Again (Anna Marie Island) 1-8-09
















Well, it came time to shake off the barnacles and get back on the waterway again today. It was made easy by having a clear, low humidity, sunny day with a start of 61 degrees which is just perfect for us northern boaters. Gary and Rose on Rose’s Pick decided also to leave today and we traveled together for 44 miles to Anna Marie Island.

This trip entails going under 10 bridges. Bob had lowered our tall antennas for this (19.6') as we were going after low tide but all had a clearance of at least 21 feet. I should mention for fellow Loopers that the bridge tenders monitor Channel 9 which was not immediately apparent to us at the first bridge ( Bellaire)which also had important numbers missing on their sign that the central portion of the bridge span is 4 feet higher. Do not plan on making a lot of speed on this portion of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) as there are a lot of no-wake zones and some crab pots. You will have plenty of depth in well-marked channels and be accompanied periodically by curious dolphins.

As we neared Anna Marie Island, we saw a Coast Guard rescue practice mission with helicopters and boats which was made more real by the CG radio announcement later that an EPIRB (emergency beacon) had deployed in the area. It’s good to know that the technology works and that the CG is there.

US Today did a feature story on Anna Marie Island a few weeks ago and described it as the real Florida. It is a narrow island 8 miles long and is remarkable for the lack of hotels, hi-rises, shopping malls and box stores. We loved the laid-back feel and the 1950’s style Mom and Pop stores and restaurants. Cortez and Coquina beaches merge and provide miles of sand and Gulf waters ribboned by a walking and bike trail. Gary and Rose opted for the early evening spaghetti feed at the Moose Lodge, and Bob and I enjoyed a glorious sunset and full moonlight walk on the beach. The Manatee Trolley bus shuttles between here, Longboat Key and the mainland which makes the area accessible, but for now, it is still forgotten.

As we move south, the boats and people are getting more colorful. Would you guess that this colorful boat used to be a 1963 sedate 41’ Hatteras? The owner Rick is not done yet and plans to add another level of red and purple to “really bring out the color”. He shares the space with his cat and 2 African birds that talk and make girlie whistles. For a special treat, Rick lit all the Christmas lights and decorations for which he won 1st place at the boat parade, and that together with the neon glow of the boat, made it possible for us to do without inside lights that night.

Farewell to Clearwater 1-8-09
















Welcome back faithful readers. Our boat has been docked at the Clearwater Beach marina for the past month and we have really enjoyed our time there. Most of our blog has focused on the traveling parts of our trip but some have asked what did we do daily in Clearwater for 3 weeks.

I am an early morning person and like nothing better than walking a beach for 1-2 hours at first light with my winged friends. I asked the pool staff at the Hilton Hotel if I could use their pool to do my water physical therapy program and they graciously let me use their pool early in the morning. There is a municipal pool in Clearwater but it is not open until March.

There is always something going on down at the docks and it’s always fun watching whose coming in and out. The pirate ship would regularly go by our dock at 4pm and start the song, "Who Let the Dogs Out", and then we were conditioned to start panting and sing the song also. Bob and I are not suntan people as you can tell from my still pasty white color that I have worked hard to maintain with sunscreen 45 and 55, but we did take our chairs down to the beautiful Clearwater beach every day at 2pm to read. After dinner, we would often head back to Pier 60 for a leisurely walk along the beach and catch a beautiful sunset.

Christmas in New York
















We left sunny 70 degree Tampa on 12/25 for cold frosty Albany NY but were warmed there by the love of our family. My sister and brother-in-law, Maureen and Kevin, live there and graciously open their home and hearts to 16 family members who roll in with suitcases, laundry bag, sleeping bags, blow-up mattresses and food for 5 days. Did I mention liquor as this is an Irish family. It is quite a production with non-stop food, conversation, fun and games. Kevin good naturedly tries to tell us that family like fish stinks after 3 days but we continue to stay. The twenty year old cousins were invited to a number of parties but opted to hang with the crazy aunts and uncles probably to get stories and pictures to bribe us with later.

Catch the picture of Bob trying out Guitar Hero. OK—Norwegians do have to work a little harder at the rhythm thing but he was psyched by it and wants to get one for the boat. Our family loves the interactive game Mafia in which family members secretly plot to off each other—it really helps the bonding Soprano style. With rounds of Dance Revolution and American Idol, I can honestly report that there is a lot of “talent” in this family.

It is always hard to say good-bye but we always take with us our love for each other. We will see the whole gang again on the East coast this summer. We had an 18 hour trip back to Tampa through snow and sleet but did get to Clearwater beach at 12 midnight to catch the New Year fireworks.
Happy New Year and may 2009 bring you much joy and happiness.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Happy Holidays from Clearwater Beach 12-15-08


We have decided to stay here for a month. We will be flying from Tampa to NY to see family from 12/25 to 12/30, and with a monthly marina rate of $15 per foot, this is a great option.

Clearwater Beach is a wide, white sand, expansive beach and the boardwalk area has recently been refurbished with lush landscaping and Pier 60. There are plenty of shops and restaurants nearby as well as a Publix grocery store 1 mile away. The Jolly Trolley offers area transportation for $1 and there are bike paths also. The Clearwater Recreation Center offers yoga 3 times a week.

We rented a car from Enterprise for the weekend and toured St. Petersburg’s museums. The Salvador Dali Museum is extraordinary and offers the largest collection of his works in the U.S. The Museum of Fine Arts and the Holocaust Museum were very thought-provoking and all can be reached via the Looper Trolley bus.

We had wanted to go to Honeymoon Island and Calidisi Island State Parks with our boat but were concerned about water levels so we did the next best thing—packed a picnic, brought our beach chairs and hiking shoes and drove there. Definitely worth a visit.

Bob and I want to wish you a happy and joyful holiday season. We will start blogging again in January when we start heading south to Marathon.

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