A Necklace of Islands Summer 9-8-11

As I look back on our summer cruise through northern Lake Michigan and the North Channel of Lake Huron, our GPS track threads through so many islands and forms a beautiful necklace. Grand Traverse Bay and the ports of Lake Michigan form its clasp, and Beaver Island is the starter bead. The grey and pink granite islands of the North Channel form the bulk of the necklace and here’s a picture of our last secluded anchorage in the North Channel—Long Point Cove. We will add to this island necklace every year until we have strung all the islands together.

The last bead in the island necklace is a gem—Mackinac Island. Come by ferry or your own boat and make sure it’s after Labor Day when the tourist season winds down but beautiful early fall weather prevails There are only 20 boats here in this 80 slip marina and at $38 a day, it is a real deal. The island invites you to step back to a time when walking, biking and carriage rides were the norm. There is way more to Mackinac Island than the fort and fudge. 80% of the island is Michigan State land so there is plenty of hiking and biking along the 140 miles of byways and trails and Mollie and I are logging a lot of miles. I finally took off my lucky boat hat for a picture at the Iroquois Hotel patio restaurant where we had a terrific meal at a very reasonable price.

Captain Bob has crunched a few numbers for this boating season (6/7/11 to 9/26/11):

Distance traveled: 640 nautical miles
Miles per gallon: 4.6
Nights at Anchor: 26
Generator Hours: 35
Number of Islands: 15
Number of Ports: 11
Worth of Experience: priceless

We’ve learned so much this season about what we need on board to cruise Lake Michigan and the North Channel. Our wish list will make Christmas and birthday shopping very easy. My list is pretty basic and includes a kayak, digital camera, and fishing gear. Captain Bob’s list needs a bit more explanation: a range finder (laser gizmo that accurately measures distance), portable depth sounder (Bob has been doing soundings with a measured boat pole but you probably knew he would want to upgrade), “rocker stopper” (helps dampen the motion of a boat at anchor), and a new seat for the dinghy. To take on new stuff, we’ve looked at what we don’t need now so the 2nd bike and the portable air conditioner will be offered for sale. Mollie’s list is pretty simple as the girl is crazy about sticks. We loaded up with toys but sticks are her thing to chase on land, retrieve in the water and even to chomp on. Good thing one of us has low cost taste.

We are scheduled for haul-out in Northport on 9-26 so there are lots of boat projects to do before we tuck Baby Grand back into her cocoon. We’ll be going back to the mountains of Colorado and look forward to seeing our family as well as hiking, skiing, volunteer work, city life in Denver and RVing in the West. It is a very balanced life for us divided amongst so many varied activities and people we love. It has been fun to share this blog with you and let’s stay in touch. peggy8301@hotmail.com

The Rhythm of Island Life 8-30-11

Our days at anchor in the beautiful North Channel islands are drawing to a close. Many boaters have already headed back to their home ports and casual conversations now include the question, “When are you hauling out?” The days are getting shorter and it’s a little cooler at night so Mother Nature is also preparing us for a transition.

As I sit here at anchor on a late August afternoon, I want to drink in my surroundings and send it like a postcard to myself in the other season. I want my senses to absorb and remember the soft sway of the boat gliding back and forth, traveling from one impressive vista to another; the waves gently lapping against the hull and as the wind increases, pounding harder letting you know it is a force to be reckoned with; the call of the loon, the morning cry of the morning dove, the soaring wings of the eagle and the countless other voices making the woods come alive as well as the deep green forest stenciled between the blue sky with its dancing clouds and the shimmering water below. All of these visceral elements have the contradictory power to hypnotize you into a Zen state or supercharge you with an adrenaline rush. I want to box them all up and take them home.

I wake up every morning in my floating water bed as the first light pokes through my small V-berth window. I hear the anchor rode yawning as it has been awake all night telegraphing with little taps that we are safe and holding. We have not needed our large quilt for warmth yet, but it is at the ready, lumped large between us like a body that we now call “Fred.”

I embrace the day with yoga as the moving water challenges me to find a balance point. I love the daily rituals of anchor life, like making coffee on my propane stove. If it’s cold outside, I fire up the oven to make something delicious. You can’t beat the combination of instant heat and something great to eat.

Our Border terrier puppy, Mollie, watches me from her crate and is in absolutely no hurry to get up before 8 a.m. As she hears me opening cereal bags, her food alarm must engage and she finally stretches outside her crate. She wiggles a greeting to Bob and I while also sniffing around for any remnants of late night snacking—there are no food secrets from her. Mollie always wants to play, have fun and live in the moment. Dogs teach us so much that way.

While listening to the Cruisers’ Net on Channel 71 every morning, I do the spider walk around the boat. Armed with a mop dipped in lake water, I collect their nets and the nightly bug carnage. I am amazed at how clean the boat is this year compared to our travels though salt water and the dirty locks on the Great Circle Loop. We have dog hair now to chase around and I have a non-electrical way to collect it—the FlopMastr which is a flip flop that I rake over the rugs and settees. I just might Trademark this but I wanted to share it with you first.

With feet up on our his and hers settees, Bob and I talk about plans for the day, actually plans sound too definite, how about “floating possibilities.” If a wind shift occurs and we have to leave an anchorage, we discuss a list of anchorages with better protection. If we’re staying put, the agenda is which hike and dinghy ride to do first. There are no wrong choices.

Afternoons at anchor are tailor-made for reading. We each have 20+ books on board, not including cruising books. It would be simpler if we shared a taste in books but I’m a sucker for anything that’s won an award; Bob finds these too plodding, without plot and craves more action. There is nothing more enjoyable than whiling away an afternoon reading a good book with your puppy cuddled on your lap as the world revolves around you on the hook. This might lead to a little nap—all the better.

Sharing an anchorage is an easy way to meet other boaters. It’s so easy to dinghy or kayak over, introduce yourself and amazing conversations ensue. There are so many “It’s a small world” moments as we find how we’re all connected though mutual friends or places we’ve been. We get noticed with our name of Baby Grand as boaters often wonder where is the grand piano. We’re part of the North Channel cruising community now thanks to the Cruisers' Net and the hospitality seasoned boaters have shown us. We were even befriended by a Rosborough trawler couple from VT who looked to us for “expert” advice on anchoring as we’ve been here 3 more weeks than them. A Canadian cottager approached us the other night telling us there was a price for anchoring in front of his property—mandatory attendance at Happy Hour at 5p.m. on his dock.

Mealtime is savored at anchor and I love cooking in my small galley kitchen. It takes a little planning and an ability to grasp exactly what all is stuffed inside our small fridge and its tiny freezer. I like the challenge of this and with 3 towns each less than 20 miles away, provisioning is way easier than on the Loop or in the Bahamas. Bob is always appreciative of my efforts but I did burn his Norwegian taste buds lately with too much cayenne pepper.

Bob and I have been retired now for exactly 3 years and have spent 23 of those months on Baby Grand. We’ve been married for 42 years and it seems like all the work before is for the best now. We are older versions of our younger selves who dreamed of days like this. There is nothing better than ending the day together at anchor with a 360 degree surround view, watching a sunset, moon rise or stars. It puts life in perspective and the small stuff fades away.

You may have noticed that a picture of Baby Grand accompanies every blog entry. With her perfectly proportioned lines and classic look, she captures the beauty, the essence and the feel of boating for us. She has been a major player in all of our adventures and she will continue to be our island home for years to come.

South Benjamin Island Again 8-27-11

This is probably our favorite anchorage so far and we did not expect to see it again this year. However, we were at Benjamin Harbour around the corner when the NE wind started building so we had to move. Just like the last time, we checked out South Benjamin and there was a space for us but all the way in towards the weedy grass.

We did see some trailer sailor boats tucked in this spot last time but were unsure with our 3’10” depth if we would fit. Captain Bob moved very slowly to the end of the anchorage with yours truly at bow watch and we were surprised to find a good 6-7 feet of depth here and only a few deadheads. Captain Bob went out in the dinghy and sounded the rest of the bay with a real “high tech” depth sounder—a boat pole.

The trails here are a little steep and overgrown but I was determined to find a way east over to Benjamin Harbour. It’s times like this that Captain Bob calls me Daniela Boone. Perseverance counts when you’re trail whacking and I am pleased to report that the trail is there and I’ve marked it with cairns and sticks.

We did a second hike of the day up the steep westside cliffs so that we could get some cell phone service to call our daughter Kate for her birthday. Wish she could be here with us to share this special spot.

The Benjamins 8-26-11

This beautiful harbor is formed by the northeastern side of South Benjamin and the southwestern side of North Benjamin Islands. It is encircled by a phalanx of rocky shoals and pink granite cliffs which gives the area character as well as a mystique. The Benjamins are on every North Channel boater’s list of to-do anchorages and it’s easy to see why it makes the list as one of the most beautiful anchorages in the world.

With northeast winds coming tomorrow, we knew we would have to move so we really enjoyed today. We tried to hike to a hidden cove last year but lost the trail somewhere but were determined this year to find it. We tramped through the overgrown forest and up steep cliffs with Mollie in the lead and found it!

It was great to meet up with so many boaters we had met at the Rendezvous. Everyone is making plans to start heading back home soon which makes each of us savor the moments of today.

Cruisers’ Net Rendezvous at Little Current 8-23-11

We’re here in Little Current for the Cruisers’ Net Rendezvous. Every morning at 9 a.m. we listen to the Net on Channel 71 and get the latest news, sports, local happening and call-ins from boaters throughout the North Channel. It is hosted by Roy Eaton. He is a retired school principal, an avid sailor, member of the Little Current Yacht Club and a shining example of Canadian hospitality. He watches over North Channel boaters like a guardian angel by keeping us all connected through the Net, offers his personal phone number to boaters in case our families back home have to contact us with an emergency and provides his home address so that our needed boating supplies can be delivered there.

Roy and the Net are also about having fun. The Net hosts an “Appy Hour” every Friday in July and August from 3-5pm at the Anchor Inn which even provides free hor d’oeuvres. We have not been far enough east this season to attend these but we are here for the end of the season Cruisers’ Net Rendezvous.

Roy organized a great line-up of excursions and classes for us. Roy is a lifelong resident of the area, and gave a very interesting presentation on the Trent Severn Canal, Georgian Bay and the North Channel, providing lots of local information and stories. Most boaters never see the mainland side of Manitoulin Island and Roy arranged for some tours, complete with his friends and LCYC members providing transportation. I chose to go on the Pepper Point Garden tour. As boaters, we see lots of wilderness up here but it was great to see the home garden of Jean and John Narozanski. We also visited Ten Mile Point Gallery which features First Nation art works. We learned more from a local expert on First Nation and Inuit art through a presentation about the vitality of their work. Bob went on the tour to a local fish farm, and will certainly consider buying such products now that he’s seen how clean the process is.

No rendezvous is complete without a potluck feast. There was plenty of food and good cheer and 124 boaters had a great time. There was no charge for any of the above activities, and Roy even arranged for the Little Current Municipal dock to give a 2 for 1 day price for the event.

Roy is such a modest man and always gives credit to others when praised. He is the inspiration for all of this and we are very grateful.

Covered Portage 8-20-11

We’ve saved some of the more spectacular anchorages for last. Here we are at Covered Portage. We have been told that this little hide-away can hold 40 boats during the busy vacation weeks of July and early August. Imagine our surprise when we tucked past the rocky entrance to find ourselves alone in this paradise.

We were here for 3 nights and shared the anchorage nightly with only 6-7 other boats. Kids of all ages love this little anchorage. It inspires the imagination and you feel like you’re in Neverland without Captain Hook and the ticking crocodile.

This little anchorage has a lot of trails to explore. Here’s Mollie being line leader and she was doing pretty well until she veered into the woods after a pesky chipmunk. There is a great panoramic view from the top of the south trail. We noticed that some of the other trails here are now marked “Private” and we hope that this trend does not continue. There is a well-marked trail on the north side which leads you up and along the cliff tops back out to the entrance.

It’s hard to leave paradise but we know that we will be back here again next year.

Heywood Island, Browning Cove 8-18-11

We’ve been in Little Current for the past two days getting chores done as well as reconnecting with boaters we’ve met at anchorages and meeting some new and gold Loopers. We’ll be back in Little Current for a Cruisers’ Net rendezvous next week so I will take pictures then.

We joined the boat parade as the Little Current Bridge swung open to allow east and west traffic. Some of the cruising books and even the bridge sign note that the bridge stays open for 15 minutes on the hour, but it is really only 3 minutes and boats really hustle or have to tread water for another hour.

Our 8 mile trip today brings us past the gleaming Strawberry Island Lighthouse. The grounds and tower is closed so the best view is from the water.

Here we are in Browning Cove on Heywood Island. It is a low well-treed island which shelters a large bird population, including eagles, but they must be napping this afternoon. Tomorrow morning should be a treat. I wish my camera could capture the teal blue color of the water here as well as the hills of Killarney in the distance. This is a great place to dinghy around 3 bays and Mollie definitely had a good time.

Bell Cove on Great La Cloche Island 8-15-11

Today we decided to explore a number of islands as we head east on our way to the Town of Little Current tomorrow. Bob is a great planner and had printed lots of GLCC Harbor Reports so we might as well use them. We also use The Ports Guide to Georgian Bay, the North Channel & Lake Huron as well as the wonderfully descriptive, Well-Favored Passage, the Magic of Lake Huron's North Channel by Marjorie Cahn Brazer.

As we headed east into the Mid-Channel islands, the scenery changes from islands with towering pine-studded cliffs to low island shores covered thickly with a mixed forest and underbrush. We explored Amedroz and Bedford Islands, and although not as spectacular as South Benjamin, each offers wide harbors with sandy rock beaches. We did not stay long at either as a welcoming swarm of small biting flies greeted us on this calm, sunny day. This was a hungry batch that had just hatched in the recent rain and they were really, really hungry. I hoisted the anchor in record time and I did not even take any pictures.

As we continued further east, the west wind kicked in at 15 knots so we decided to head to La Cloche Island which has two side-by-side coves on the north side, Bell Cove and Sturgeon Cove. Bell Cove is easier to enter on a windy day, has a large harbor, but is very deep. We have never anchored in 25 feet of water with 160 feet of rode out but are holding very well.

We took our dinghy over to Sturgeon Cove to explore. This is a tougher entrance to negotiate, and notice the white range markers (2 white circles and a white can maintained by local boaters; GLCC recommends another set of markers?????) that help get you through the rocks safely if you figure it out correctly. This is a favorite GLCC anchorage and there were 10 sailboats here. We’ll come back another day when it’s calm and we can see the rock shoal below.

South Benjamin Island 8-14-11

Every boater needs a perfect boating day to sustain them through the other season. Today was that day for me. It is probably more special as it occurred through happenstance and some perseverance which always sweetens the outcome for me.

We left Eagle Island as strong NE winds and rain were forecast for 8/13. We thought we would have to travel further to find a secure anchorage for the night, but luck was with us when we checked out South Benjamin harbor. It is located on the SW side of the island, is more compact than its popular sister harbor formed by North and South Benjamin Islands, and had a spot just meant for us.

But, first, we had to slog through 24 hours of rain, the non-stop kind that keeps you inside for the whole day and night. This is a test of any boating relationship, and luckily we passed—Mollie with flying colors. On any rainy day, there are nappers and nodders; Mollie and I fully embrace the decadence of the afternoon siesta; Bob does not “believe” in naps, but you will find him on the settee with his bobble head nodding and snoring over a book, and then denying it. I’ll choose a nap every time.

The next morning swept in with a clear beautiful blue sky. I do yoga every morning using the book, Yoga Onboard-a Guide for Cruisers and Live-aboards by Kim Hess. It is a unique approach that uses parts of the boat to help with the postures and combines the body’s and boat’s energy together. This was my focal point for today and it is impossible not to feel a little Zen in such a place of beauty.

We were joined in the anchorage by 3 Canadian sailboat crews and we were all like kids at recess today, meeting each other and zipping around the harbor in our dinghies. Here’s a picture of another sailboat being tied-up spider style in a shallow cove that can only be entered on very calm days with lots of local knowledge.

The pink flattened granite rock cliffs beckon you to land and climb up to find trails to the other side. You are rewarded by a spectacular view of the harbor and your boat below. Bob uses his GPS to explore trails; Mollie, her terrier sniffer, and each wanted to go in different directions. It was fun playing hide and seek with Mollie as she tried to find Bob who is hiding behind a tree at the bottom of the hill.

With a full moon and a sky full of stars, this is the life.

Eagle Island 8-11-11

After the usual P’s and E’s (provisioning, pump-outs; exercise, emails) in Spanish, we headed to Eagle Island, 10 miles to the SE. The wind usually kicks-up whitecap waves at 15 knots, but we have another sign—Mollie’s ears pointed upwards. Mollie has great sea legs and our aft cockpit provides a pretty secure playpen for her.

Eagle Island is one of the largest (2.75 miles long) islands off the McBean Channel. It has a large harbor and only NE winds create any fetch. Watch out for the deadheads below marked cleverly by a GLCC boater with a milk jug. The island has a tuck away cove where trailer sailors can fit snugly and where we can dinghy ashore to explore. Mollie was swimming and retrieving sticks in the water but then spotted these frogs and wanted to play. “Watch out,” says that frog…….

There were a number of Loopers and GLCC boaters sharing the anchorage with us. I do not usually mention their names or do pictures this year but I will make an exception as Bayfield boaters will know this couple-- Dave and Sue Chase on Old Sam Peabody—no, not their beautiful sailboat that they had in the Apostle Islands, but a Grand Banks 32 just like our boat. They have been cruising the North Channel for years and had so many helpful tips about the islands and our boat. We had a regular Grand Banks 32 rendezvous and boat love fest when Catnip from Gore Bay also stopped by to chat. We all agreed that this is the perfect boat to do the North Channel. It’s a small world.