Bell Cove on Great La Cloche Island 8-15-11

Today we decided to explore a number of islands as we head east on our way to the Town of Little Current tomorrow. Bob is a great planner and had printed lots of GLCC Harbor Reports so we might as well use them. We also use The Ports Guide to Georgian Bay, the North Channel & Lake Huron as well as the wonderfully descriptive, Well-Favored Passage, the Magic of Lake Huron's North Channel by Marjorie Cahn Brazer.

As we headed east into the Mid-Channel islands, the scenery changes from islands with towering pine-studded cliffs to low island shores covered thickly with a mixed forest and underbrush. We explored Amedroz and Bedford Islands, and although not as spectacular as South Benjamin, each offers wide harbors with sandy rock beaches. We did not stay long at either as a welcoming swarm of small biting flies greeted us on this calm, sunny day. This was a hungry batch that had just hatched in the recent rain and they were really, really hungry. I hoisted the anchor in record time and I did not even take any pictures.

As we continued further east, the west wind kicked in at 15 knots so we decided to head to La Cloche Island which has two side-by-side coves on the north side, Bell Cove and Sturgeon Cove. Bell Cove is easier to enter on a windy day, has a large harbor, but is very deep. We have never anchored in 25 feet of water with 160 feet of rode out but are holding very well.

We took our dinghy over to Sturgeon Cove to explore. This is a tougher entrance to negotiate, and notice the white range markers (2 white circles and a white can maintained by local boaters; GLCC recommends another set of markers?????) that help get you through the rocks safely if you figure it out correctly. This is a favorite GLCC anchorage and there were 10 sailboats here. We’ll come back another day when it’s calm and we can see the rock shoal below.

South Benjamin Island 8-14-11

Every boater needs a perfect boating day to sustain them through the other season. Today was that day for me. It is probably more special as it occurred through happenstance and some perseverance which always sweetens the outcome for me.

We left Eagle Island as strong NE winds and rain were forecast for 8/13. We thought we would have to travel further to find a secure anchorage for the night, but luck was with us when we checked out South Benjamin harbor. It is located on the SW side of the island, is more compact than its popular sister harbor formed by North and South Benjamin Islands, and had a spot just meant for us.

But, first, we had to slog through 24 hours of rain, the non-stop kind that keeps you inside for the whole day and night. This is a test of any boating relationship, and luckily we passed—Mollie with flying colors. On any rainy day, there are nappers and nodders; Mollie and I fully embrace the decadence of the afternoon siesta; Bob does not “believe” in naps, but you will find him on the settee with his bobble head nodding and snoring over a book, and then denying it. I’ll choose a nap every time.

The next morning swept in with a clear beautiful blue sky. I do yoga every morning using the book, Yoga Onboard-a Guide for Cruisers and Live-aboards by Kim Hess. It is a unique approach that uses parts of the boat to help with the postures and combines the body’s and boat’s energy together. This was my focal point for today and it is impossible not to feel a little Zen in such a place of beauty.

We were joined in the anchorage by 3 Canadian sailboat crews and we were all like kids at recess today, meeting each other and zipping around the harbor in our dinghies. Here’s a picture of another sailboat being tied-up spider style in a shallow cove that can only be entered on very calm days with lots of local knowledge.

The pink flattened granite rock cliffs beckon you to land and climb up to find trails to the other side. You are rewarded by a spectacular view of the harbor and your boat below. Bob uses his GPS to explore trails; Mollie, her terrier sniffer, and each wanted to go in different directions. It was fun playing hide and seek with Mollie as she tried to find Bob who is hiding behind a tree at the bottom of the hill.

With a full moon and a sky full of stars, this is the life.

Eagle Island 8-11-11

After the usual P’s and E’s (provisioning, pump-outs; exercise, emails) in Spanish, we headed to Eagle Island, 10 miles to the SE. The wind usually kicks-up whitecap waves at 15 knots, but we have another sign—Mollie’s ears pointed upwards. Mollie has great sea legs and our aft cockpit provides a pretty secure playpen for her.

Eagle Island is one of the largest (2.75 miles long) islands off the McBean Channel. It has a large harbor and only NE winds create any fetch. Watch out for the deadheads below marked cleverly by a GLCC boater with a milk jug. The island has a tuck away cove where trailer sailors can fit snugly and where we can dinghy ashore to explore. Mollie was swimming and retrieving sticks in the water but then spotted these frogs and wanted to play. “Watch out,” says that frog…….

There were a number of Loopers and GLCC boaters sharing the anchorage with us. I do not usually mention their names or do pictures this year but I will make an exception as Bayfield boaters will know this couple-- Dave and Sue Chase on Old Sam Peabody—no, not their beautiful sailboat that they had in the Apostle Islands, but a Grand Banks 32 just like our boat. They have been cruising the North Channel for years and had so many helpful tips about the islands and our boat. We had a regular Grand Banks 32 rendezvous and boat love fest when Catnip from Gore Bay also stopped by to chat. We all agreed that this is the perfect boat to do the North Channel. It’s a small world.

Laurier Island 8-9-11

We have finally loaded in all our GPS ports and anchorage waypoints into the “Looper Locator” top section of this blog so you can get a Google Earth view of where we have been so far this summer. You’ll notice that we’ve been all over the North Channel east, then west, then east again in a seemingly confused pattern. This is partially true as we are meandering, but we’re also covering the bigger anchorages in the western area before we head east again to the very popular ones. The legendary anchorages (the Benjamins, Covered Portage, and Baie Fin) are pretty full right now with boaters on vacation and we have the luxury of time.

We have crisscrossed the beautiful Whaleback Channel a number of times. It is spectacular on a clear blue sky day as the dark pines, steep granite sloped islands and clear blue water stand out in vivid contrast. It is regarded as one of the most beautiful passages in the world. I think it’s time for another camera next year as my little Nikon CoolPix cannot capture the beauty of this incredible place. Here’s a picture of the “whale” in the Whaleback.

Our destination today is Laurier Island, located east by Little Detroit Narrows and about 2 miles from the town of Spanish. It’s not as scenic as the other islands that we’ve visited but has something very special—great fishing. The island is low and grassy which makes it a magnet for pike and bass. All the locals come here regularly to try their luck, and it was fun to meet them and get more tips on special anchorages. I think it’s time to consider adding fishing gear onboard, but Bob tells me I have to do the gutting. Some boaters anchor their boats here and simply take their dinghies into Spanish for a beer run. There is an island for everyone out here in the North Channel.

Bob may be reluctant to gut fish, but tonight he was a regular Rambo with the outside spiders. It was a cool night with few mosquitoes, so we headed outside fortified with flashlights, fly swatter, paper towels and maybe a little wine. This was a “take no prisoners” raid with me finding the critters with the flashlight and Bob swooping down with the swatter. By the end of the night, we were crunching them with relish with our bare hands and giving a commando hoot as we notched 40 kills on our belts. We are pretty non-violent folks but this was needed to take back OUR boat.