Journey to Marathon 1-23-09

After the excitement with Pandora’s Box, we set a course of 178 degrees for Marathon, the most southerly port of our Great Loop adventure. Winds were 10-15 mph with a 1 foot chop and we were able to do 8.5 mph on this 47 mile trip today.

We played many rounds of “dodgepot” today as we weaved through the crab pot fields, and occasionally we could see who was “serving” when we came upon crabber boats.

The trip was fast and uneventful today but that changed when we entered Florida Bay and the water changed to a light green and we could see the Seven Mile Bridge connecting Pigeon, Monkey and Sunshine Keys. After zig zagging through some final crab pots and the Red Bay Banks, we headed under the bridge and into the Hawk Channel which is the Atlantic Ocean side of the Keys.

We stopped at Poncho’s Fuel for Valvtect diesel ($2.65) then under the Boot Key bascule bridge of 26 feet and on to Sombrero Resort Marina where we will be for a month. This will be a great stop as it has a pool onsite, a beach a few miles away, Publix and West Marine which are always high on our list, and we’ve just been told that everybody on the dock meets at 5pm. Stay tuned.

Finding Pandora’s Box 1-23-09

We were not sure that this was a boat when we first saw its outline near the shores of Little Shark River. Is it an RV? Are there roads over to this desolate part of the Everglades? No—I think it’s a boat. It’s a camper mounted on a pontoon boat with a dinghy boat filled with coolers, gas cans and “stuff.” We thought this guy is definitely headed south to Key West.

Imagine our surprise when we were leaving the Shark River anchorage this morning and heard the Coast Guard asking if anyone had sited the boat, Pandora’s Box. They were about to deploy helicopters to search for him. As we listened more to the alert, we figured out that it had to be the above boat. It seems that his mother reported him missing after being overdue 3 days. The Coast Guard wanted to know his location and ascertain if he needed help.

We were ½ mile south of him and called Pandora’s Box on Channel 16. The boater answered promptly that he could hear the CG transmissions but they were not receiving his from his low voltage radio. He seemed embarrassed about all the fuss and assured us that he was fine and was headed to the Keys. We relayed all the above to the CG.

Any mother looking at this “boat” would be worried. Rest assured Gary’s mom that your son is fine and having the adventure of his life, but keep up your prayers.

Quiet in the Everglades (Little Shark River) 1-22-09

It was 36 degrees this morning at 7:40am when we headed south to Little Shark River in the Everglades, 62 miles away. We had really sloppy seas left over from the high winds from the past few days but today’s trip was very doable. We cruised at 8.3 mph and got a tidal boost of .5 which really helped. We set the autohelm for 158 degrees but then set it for 120 to avoid Romeo Point Reef and then to 134 degrees for Little Shark River. For some as yet unknown reason, the GPS had a slight “coffee break” when we were doing this so we had to be vigilant. It’s back operating now after some incantations and pleadings.

The Gulf flattened out after noon and the water changed to a lighter green which gave us a hint that we were getting closer to the Keys. We saw only 3 boats on this entire trip so imagine our surprise when we pulled into our anchorage in the Everglades at Little Shark River and found 7 other boats, mostly sailboats.

It was great to share this special anchorage with the surrounding boats. There were no generators, dinghy motors or loud music. Everyone seemed to have the same awe for this quiet place and wanted to listen to nature and watch the sun set. If you come here, we would recommend that you anchor in the main river channel as you will get a better sunset picture and have good depths. We were in the side channel and had enough depth in the morning but we could also see birds in shallow water 25 yards away.

38 Degrees on Marco Island 1-21-09

Any boater hearing the name Marco Island remembers its dubious history as the place where local ordinances were enacted to restrict boats from anchoring so that local waterfront property owners could have unobstructed views. Thanks to the organized civil disobedience by local boaters in 2006 and lawsuits in 2007, this ordinance was struck down by a Collier County judge and this gave notice to other FL communities that boaters have rights also.

We thought about anchoring in solidarity with a few sailboats perched off the end of our marina, but with 38 degrees forecasted with 25-30 knot winds and the Gulf showing 6-10 foot seas, we wanted to be safe and snug at a dock, We are at Marina at Factory Bay for 4 nights awaiting a weather window to start heading south to the Keys. This is a clear water marina which means that gray water discharge is prohibited but free laundry facilities and clean restrooms are provided. Marina staff, Curtis and Neal, are very helpful.

We were blanketed from some of the wind and cold by the gated hi-rise condos on shore. Marco Island is an impeccably manicured tropical island with lush foliage everywhere, but with the frost expected, gardeners are putting covers on the more fragile annuals. We do that too in MN but that’s in September and the current cover is tons of snow. This was a surreal place to watch the Obama Inauguration.

Snook’s Inn is just a short walk or bike ride from the marina and offers a fantastic salad bar with lunch and dinner entrees. The marina is less than a mile from a real boaters shopping center offering a West Marine, ATM and a Publix supermarket—what more do you need.

Nice Easy Open Water Day to Marco Island 1-18-09

Today was the easiest open water crossing that we have done on the Loop. We left Ft. Meyers Beach at 8am with 54 degrees with cloudy skies and a slight chop and the day progressed to sunny 72 degrees and almost flat calm. We were offshore about 2-5 miles in 20-25 feet of water which was a nice change from the skinny water we’ve had. Best news—only a few crab pots on our 42 mile trip today.

It was so calm today that I could make an Amsterdam Apple Pancake in the oven. Here’s Bob devouring it. Our trip today took us past the hi-rises on Bonita Beach, Wiggins Pass, and Naples and then the more open beaches of Keewaydin Island where boats were anchoring.

Fast diving dolphins greeted us at the entrance to Marco Island where we will be staying at the Marina at Factory Bay (with Boat US discount, $1.80 per foot). The marina has been closed to transients for 6 months to upgrade their electric but it is now open. We will be here a few days to wait for the fronts to go through which also allows us to watch all the Obama festivities.

With wide streets and less car traffic than Ft. Meyers Beach, Marco Island is a great place to bike ride. Our collapsible bikes are already off the flybridge and ready for a ride tomorrow morning all around this 4 by 6 mile island.