Golf Cart Day 3-25-09

Lew and Florrie on ‘Harmony” asked us if we wanted to share a golf cart today and explore the island. What a great idea! Florrie and I got in the rear facing rumble seat, held on tight and did rear view mirror duty. Although I love to walk and bike, no trip to this island is complete without the golf cart experience. Many of the roads are bumpy and curvy which only adds to the fun.

We made a full day of it starting with lunch at the Harbour’s Edge Restaurant where they serve delicious blackened grouper sandwiches and spicy curly fries.

It was a short walk to the Wyannie Malone Museum to learn more about this special place. The islands were first settled by the Lucayans and there are a number of current archeological digs to unearth their artifacts. The area was popular with pirates like Bluebeard during the 1600-1700’s as the treacherous reefs and uncharted islands gave them so many places to hide. After the American Revolution was won, Loyalist sympathetic with England and unsure that the democracy could work emigrated to the Bahamas, but civil strife, meager agricultural productivity and hurricanes challenged them greatly. Wind from the Carolinas by Robert Wilder is a fictionalized account of this period and was highly recommended by Florrie and the museum curator.

During the American Civil War, the Bahamas operated as a base for the Confederates running the Union naval blockades, and later during Prohibition, rum runners were very active. The islands have an extensive history of boat building and here is a picture of an Abaco sailing dinghy and the tradition continues with the sturdy Albury boats. The Bahamas became an independent country from Britain in 1973.

Since we had the golf cart for a full 24 hours, there was time to provision at LVA grocery as well as head down to Tahiti Beach to explore. The beach was at low tide and there was plenty to see. You could even walk out closer to the Tiloo Cut to get a better view of the surf. We ended the day with drinks at Abaco Inn and made a plan to go early Thursday to Vernon’s Grocery to pick up a homemade pie before “Harmony” departs Sea Spray Marina.

The best part of the day was sharing it with Lew and Florrie. They are such generous, fun, interesting and adventurous sailors. Florrie is an accomplished artist and gave me one of her colorful prints, entitled “Hopetown Houses” which I will treasure always. Thank you so much.

Raking It In 3/23/09

One of my favorite activities is exploring the roads and trails on this island and today I found the North End trail and beach and convinced Bob to go with me. It starts in Hopetown with an Adirondack chair leisurely view of the bay and then proceeds down a narrow road to North End beach.

We were headed back to Sea Spray when we met Jim and Barb from “Damsal.” They went through the Whale with us on 3/14 and it was great to relive that morning and share where we all have been since then. That is what is so great about cruising—you see cruisers again and again and just pick up where you left off.

We returned to the boat and found a crowd had gathered on our starboard side and were pointing to our hull. To our amazement, a green tentacle grass monster of 6-10 inches had glommed on to the water line and would not let go. Bob set forth in our trusty dinghy to slay it and wondered if I wanted to serve the greens and 1 snail for lunch. You first, Bob.

Hopetown Lighthouse 3-20-09

It has been pretty windy here on Elbow Cay and we had hoped to use the dinghy more. Today winds were down and we took a dinghy ride to the Hopetown Lighthouse.

The lighthouse was not a popular idea with the Elbow Cay islander back in the 1800’s. Salvaging shipwrecks was the biggest business in town and employed half the male population. Britain commissioned the 89 foot, 101 step Elbow Cay Lighthouse which has a 15 mile range light from pressurized kerosene canisters and a Fresnel lens. It was completed in 1864 and there were many delays as the townspeople sank vessels bringing in building supplies, refused to give water and provisions to the lighthouse builders and sometimes dismantled the work already done. It survived all this and hurricanes and still shines brightly over beautiful Hopetown harbor.

On a Clear Day 3-22-09

We awoke to a crisp clear sunny Sunday morning. Sunday at home would often mean a big breakfast, and on a boat also, especially if I have a lot of ingredients that are peaking fast in the fridge. This morning’s creation was a Crustless Everything Quiche using ham, peppers, onion and mushrooms, and as long as the oven was on, I made a Blueberry Mini-loaf.

After feasting and feeling very full, a long walk into Hopetown was in order. Sea Spray is about 3 miles from town, and once I discovered the beach road, I walk it practically every day and find new paths and discoveries. Today the rain had invigorated everything and with NE/E winds of 15-20, the surf was high. Kids were having such fun playing with the waves and couples walked hand in hand along the water.

Sunday is a relaxing day on the island. Stores are closed and everyone is out toolin’ around in their golf carts or bikes. Life really does slow down when you get rid of the fast cars and have no highways. Golf carts are definitely the preferred wheels for these narrow roads with spectacular views but remember to drive on the left.

I am not a religious person but am spiritual. What sailor has not thought of the Lord when the seas are huge and perilous and our boats are so small? I attended the 11am service at St. James Methodist and was impressed with their inclusiveness, hospitality and the choir’s stirring rendition of “The Lord is My Shepherd” against the window backdrop of the thundering ocean. I was walking back through town and found the Catholic service in the park at 12:30 next to the library. It was a relaxed and casual family service complete with kids perched in trees but showing rapt attention.

A number of boaters in the marina are looking at leaving soon with the next weather window which might be mid-week. We will be here until 4/1 and gradually start making our way back to the West End. We ended the day with Happy Hour at Abaco Inn with Mike and Lorraine from “Elizabeth Rose” and Lorraine and Bob from “Scaramouche”—with so many Bobs and Lorraines, these names are easy to remember.

Rain and Wind at Sea Spray 3/21/09

The past few days we have had a lot of rain and wind which makes for a different type of day. It was good to be safe and snug at a dock and pass the time reading, napping, chart plotting, watching movies and listening to music. When the sky would clear for awhile, boaters poked out to greet each other and share food. We met Jim and Dudley from “Fanfare’, Mike and Lorraine from “Elizabeth Rose” and Bob and Lorraine from “Scaramouche” for a great potluck lunch. All of them have cruised the Bahamas previously, will continue to cruise here for the next few months and had a lot of tips for us. We are lovin’ the Bahamas and it is absolutely the best part of the trip so far. We’re already thinking how to get back here.

Our enthusiasm was not dampened by more rain and wind. Fellow Looper, Linda on “Freedom’s Turn”, organized a DVD and book exchange and even made cookies to share with us. Have you seen the 1995 movie, “Cut Throat Island” starring Geena Davis as a pirate swashbuckler and Mathew Modine as her crafty side-kick? It was panned by critics but boaters always love it and know all the double-entendre lines.

The Abacos really need the rain and locals are out celebrating and splashing in puddles. By Saturday, I was questioning why I was still inside and not out there exploring in the rain. We needed some supplies so I set off for the LVA grocery store on the beach road. I only got as far as the Sugar Shack before the deluge started but notice the sign that it was closed. I had visions of spending the whole afternoon feasting on sugar treats which was probably the real impetus for the rainy day hike.

After the rain subsided, I continued to LVA and was impressed with the amount of food and produce in this small store. I loaded up but then noticed it was really pouring. Luckily, a fellow shopper, Janet, had a golf cart and offered me a ride back. Her family has had a cottage here since the 80’s and she was a great tour guide. Elbow Cay beaches were renowned in the 60’s and 70’s as great surfing beaches and the island then offered low cost rentals which is a contrast to today’s multi-million dollar homes. The island was hit more directly by Hurricane Floyd in 1999 and houses on the ridge were wiped out with 30 foot seas. The Bahamian government gave some tax incentives and insurance payments kicked in and there has been a building boom on the island the past few years. Janet noted that in comparison with American competition in business, the Bahamians tend to share and take turns, ie. Abaco Inn has Happy Hour on Wed. and Sun. so other bars schedule theirs for other nights. She lives in NYC and comes here not only for the beautiful scenery but the renewal from this more collaborative ethos.