The Best of Southern Hospitality 10-31-08

We left Aqua Harbor Marina to travel south 36 miles to Bay Springs Marina. We pulled into this seemingly quiet marina located in a picturesque cove decked out with some fall color. Fellow Loopers, Pat and Ted aboard ‘South Shore III”, pulled in just ahead of us and informed us that we were all invited to a Halloween party on Dock A-B with the locals.

After a hike around the surrounding campground and picnic area, we headed over with drinks and a small food contribution although we had been advised “do not bring anything”—that’s hard for a MN woman.

We were greeted by the nicest bunch of folks we have ever met. Bob, Jim, Mike, the Rev, Dana, Joanne and so many more greeted us with wonderful southern hospitality. Did I mention the food—right out of the pages of "Southern Living." We had jalapeno appetizers, followed by potato soup to cool it down, then 5 casseroles and gumbo, barbequed ribs, and 4 desserts. It kept on coming.

A new tradition was born with 2 of the grandchildren trick or treating boat to boat. People here boat all year, or at least, party on their docks all year. We had a wonderful time and it will be hard to top this reception.

Corinth 10-30-08

We borrowed the Aqua Harbor courtesy car and went to the Corinth Civil War Interpretative Center. This is the perfect companion tour for Shiloh Battlefield.

Corinth is a new 15,000 sq foot facility which is reached by a walkway strewn with bronze replicas of soldiers’ belongings after a battle. It sets a reflective tone for the inside exhibits. There you will find interactive exhibits, multimedia presentations on the Battles of Shiloh and Corinth as well as full-scale reproductions of battlefield fortifications.

The highlight of the museum is the extensive courtyard and reflecting pool which gives visitors a chance to ponder the many questions raised by the exhibit and the continuing impact of the Civil War on our history.

There is an excellent bookstore also. I picked up "Gone With the Wind" which I have always meant to read. It provides a fictionalized version to what we have witnessed at both parks.

Start of the Tenn-Tom 10-29-08

There was frost on the pumpkins this morning with a temp of 38 degrees. The weather the past few days has been blustery and in the 50’s. We decide not to go further up the Tennessee River but head back down river and take the turn south for the Tenn-Tom Waterway. We want to get warm.

The Tenn-Tom Waterway connects the Tennessee and Tombigbee Rivers. It is 253 miles long and empties into the Gulf of Mexico at Mobile. It was built from 1972 to 1985 and it was more extensive to build than the Panama Canal. If it were not here, Loopers would have to use the Mississippi River with very swift currents and a lot of barge traffic. We are glad it’s here.

We left Florence and headed back down river 43 miles towards the beginning of the Tenn-Tom and pulled into Aqua Harbor for 2 days while our buddy boat, “Rose’s Pick”, gets "fluid replacements." They have a courtesy car here and we will head to another Civil War Interpretive Center at Corinth on Thursday.

Florence AL 10-28-08

We had really hoped to proceed further up the Tennessee River, at least to Joe Wheeler State Park, but to go 20 miles also meant doing 2 more locks up and then coming back down 2 days later. We opted instead to tour Florence.

I decided to do a walking tour of the area while Bob borrowed the marina courtesy car and did errands. I had seen an intriguing booklet entitled “Museums of Florence” and I set off to see them all.

I toured the Pope’s Tavern Museum which was used as a stagecoach stop, inn, tavern, and hospital and was occupied by both sides during the Civil War. It is filled with memorabilia from that period. Jo, my tour guide and former history teacher, told me many stories about the previous residents and also tested my knowledge—I think I got a B.

Florence is the birthplace of blues great, W.C. Handy, who wrote “Memphis Blues” and “St. Louis Blues.” His rebuild log cabin home is now a museum dedicated to his music. It is also a repository for African American artifacts from the 19th century. My tour guide, Selina, shared stories about his life and how he came to write the blues.

I have always wanted to see a Frank Lloyd Wright home. The City of Florence purchased the Wright-designed Rosenbaum home in 1999, rehabbed it due to extensive termite damage, and it is now available for tours. This house is an example of his Usonian design, was built in 1939 and has features that were so ahead of the times (heated floors, using local natural materials, having the inside and outside spaces flow seamlessly). It is truly a work of art.

My only regret is that I did not get to the Coon Dog Cemetery and Helen Keller's birthplace in Tuscumbia. There is so much to see in America.

Shiloh 10-27-08

We decided to rent a car today and tour the Shiloh Battlefield with Gary and Rose from “Rose’s Pick.” We stopped at the Visitor Center first to view the 25 minute film which explains what occurred here on April 6-7, 1862 and puts it within the context of the Civil War.

The Union Army under Gen. Ulysses Grant wanted to continue to sever the railroad linkages for the Confederate Army, and Generals Albert Johnson and P. G. Beauregard and their troops were determined to hold them and hoped to smash the Union Army at Shiloh and Corinth.

In a daring early morning raid on Sunday, April 6th, the Confederates stormed out of the woods and surprised a large contingent of the the 40,000 Union soldiers camped here. Fierce fighting ensued around the Shiloh (“place of peace”) Church and the Confederate Army of 44,000 gained ground and forced the Union soldiers into a thick forested area, the Hornets’ Nest, which gave them some advantage, but they were then bombarded by massive Confederate artillery.

Overnight, Union reinforcements under General Buell landed at Pittsburg Landing and on April 7th, with a combined strength of 54,000, hammered hard at the depleted ranks of General Beauregard. The Confederates continued to mount desperate counterattacks back to the Shiloh Church but were forced to retreat to Corinth. The Battle of Shiloh or Pittsburg Landing ended but it had cost both sides a combined total of 23,746 men killed, wounded or missing and was one of the bloodiest battles of the Civil War.

It was ironic to see this sight on a clear quiet day and recall the carnage that happened here. The park has 14 battlefield sites which duplicate the positions and skirmishes that occurred here. Blue signs denote the Union side; Red, the Confederate side. Each battle is configured with cannons pointed towards their adversary’s position and the orderliness of this belies the horror of that day.

The park is well done and thought provoking and makes history come alive.

Pickwick to Florence AL (TR) 49 miles

We had a calm but chilly night at anchor with overnight temp of 45 degrees but 52 degrees in the cabin. At 6am, we had a long discussion about who was going to get up out of a warm bed and fire up the generator so that we could put the heater on. Bob lost.
With the heater, solar heat and the oven on for an Amsterdam Apple Pancake, it was toasty in no time.

Mealtime is pretty important while cruising. Before starting the Loop, I collected a year’s worth of recipes from "Cooking Light "magazine, organized them into categories, and stocked up with non-perishable items to make them. I keep a master list of all the supplies I need and restock when we run low. I have to be much more efficient as we have such a small galley and fridge space but it has worked well so far. I also have two small nautical cookbooks, "The One Pan Galley Gourmet" and "From the Galleys of Women Aboard" and these supplement quite nicely.

The Tennessee River opens up to Pickwick Lake. It is a resort, camping and vacation home area with many beautiful homes along the high shores. There were more boaters out on this nice Sunday and we cruised by a sailboat race. As is always the case, 10 minutes later the wind died.

This is the Tri-corner area where Alabama, Mississippi and Tennessee meet so today we were in 3 states. It is also the entrance to the Tenn-Tom Waterway and we saw many Loopers from the Rendezvous heading there to start their trek south to Mobile. We have decided to cruise up the Tennessee River for the next week and then start south.

As we cruised closer to our destination in Florence AL, the river twisted and there were many islands that are now exposed with the winter water level pool down on the river. This part of the Tennessee is stocked with bass and many anglers were trying their luck.

We did not have time to walk into town but did walk along the waterfront park. High winds and lower temps are predicted for Monday and we may stay here, rent a car and see the sights. Florence bills itself as “the gateway to adventures in southern culture.” Stay tuned.