Covered Portage 8-20-11

We’ve saved some of the more spectacular anchorages for last. Here we are at Covered Portage. We have been told that this little hide-away can hold 40 boats during the busy vacation weeks of July and early August. Imagine our surprise when we tucked past the rocky entrance to find ourselves alone in this paradise.

We were here for 3 nights and shared the anchorage nightly with only 6-7 other boats. Kids of all ages love this little anchorage. It inspires the imagination and you feel like you’re in Neverland without Captain Hook and the ticking crocodile.

This little anchorage has a lot of trails to explore. Here’s Mollie being line leader and she was doing pretty well until she veered into the woods after a pesky chipmunk. There is a great panoramic view from the top of the south trail. We noticed that some of the other trails here are now marked “Private” and we hope that this trend does not continue. There is a well-marked trail on the north side which leads you up and along the cliff tops back out to the entrance.

It’s hard to leave paradise but we know that we will be back here again next year.

Heywood Island, Browning Cove 8-18-11

We’ve been in Little Current for the past two days getting chores done as well as reconnecting with boaters we’ve met at anchorages and meeting some new and gold Loopers. We’ll be back in Little Current for a Cruisers’ Net rendezvous next week so I will take pictures then.

We joined the boat parade as the Little Current Bridge swung open to allow east and west traffic. Some of the cruising books and even the bridge sign note that the bridge stays open for 15 minutes on the hour, but it is really only 3 minutes and boats really hustle or have to tread water for another hour.

Our 8 mile trip today brings us past the gleaming Strawberry Island Lighthouse. The grounds and tower is closed so the best view is from the water.

Here we are in Browning Cove on Heywood Island. It is a low well-treed island which shelters a large bird population, including eagles, but they must be napping this afternoon. Tomorrow morning should be a treat. I wish my camera could capture the teal blue color of the water here as well as the hills of Killarney in the distance. This is a great place to dinghy around 3 bays and Mollie definitely had a good time.

Bell Cove on Great La Cloche Island 8-15-11

Today we decided to explore a number of islands as we head east on our way to the Town of Little Current tomorrow. Bob is a great planner and had printed lots of GLCC Harbor Reports so we might as well use them. We also use The Ports Guide to Georgian Bay, the North Channel & Lake Huron as well as the wonderfully descriptive, Well-Favored Passage, the Magic of Lake Huron's North Channel by Marjorie Cahn Brazer.

As we headed east into the Mid-Channel islands, the scenery changes from islands with towering pine-studded cliffs to low island shores covered thickly with a mixed forest and underbrush. We explored Amedroz and Bedford Islands, and although not as spectacular as South Benjamin, each offers wide harbors with sandy rock beaches. We did not stay long at either as a welcoming swarm of small biting flies greeted us on this calm, sunny day. This was a hungry batch that had just hatched in the recent rain and they were really, really hungry. I hoisted the anchor in record time and I did not even take any pictures.

As we continued further east, the west wind kicked in at 15 knots so we decided to head to La Cloche Island which has two side-by-side coves on the north side, Bell Cove and Sturgeon Cove. Bell Cove is easier to enter on a windy day, has a large harbor, but is very deep. We have never anchored in 25 feet of water with 160 feet of rode out but are holding very well.

We took our dinghy over to Sturgeon Cove to explore. This is a tougher entrance to negotiate, and notice the white range markers (2 white circles and a white can maintained by local boaters; GLCC recommends another set of markers?????) that help get you through the rocks safely if you figure it out correctly. This is a favorite GLCC anchorage and there were 10 sailboats here. We’ll come back another day when it’s calm and we can see the rock shoal below.

South Benjamin Island 8-14-11

Every boater needs a perfect boating day to sustain them through the other season. Today was that day for me. It is probably more special as it occurred through happenstance and some perseverance which always sweetens the outcome for me.

We left Eagle Island as strong NE winds and rain were forecast for 8/13. We thought we would have to travel further to find a secure anchorage for the night, but luck was with us when we checked out South Benjamin harbor. It is located on the SW side of the island, is more compact than its popular sister harbor formed by North and South Benjamin Islands, and had a spot just meant for us.

But, first, we had to slog through 24 hours of rain, the non-stop kind that keeps you inside for the whole day and night. This is a test of any boating relationship, and luckily we passed—Mollie with flying colors. On any rainy day, there are nappers and nodders; Mollie and I fully embrace the decadence of the afternoon siesta; Bob does not “believe” in naps, but you will find him on the settee with his bobble head nodding and snoring over a book, and then denying it. I’ll choose a nap every time.

The next morning swept in with a clear beautiful blue sky. I do yoga every morning using the book, Yoga Onboard-a Guide for Cruisers and Live-aboards by Kim Hess. It is a unique approach that uses parts of the boat to help with the postures and combines the body’s and boat’s energy together. This was my focal point for today and it is impossible not to feel a little Zen in such a place of beauty.

We were joined in the anchorage by 3 Canadian sailboat crews and we were all like kids at recess today, meeting each other and zipping around the harbor in our dinghies. Here’s a picture of another sailboat being tied-up spider style in a shallow cove that can only be entered on very calm days with lots of local knowledge.

The pink flattened granite rock cliffs beckon you to land and climb up to find trails to the other side. You are rewarded by a spectacular view of the harbor and your boat below. Bob uses his GPS to explore trails; Mollie, her terrier sniffer, and each wanted to go in different directions. It was fun playing hide and seek with Mollie as she tried to find Bob who is hiding behind a tree at the bottom of the hill.

With a full moon and a sky full of stars, this is the life.

Eagle Island 8-11-11

After the usual P’s and E’s (provisioning, pump-outs; exercise, emails) in Spanish, we headed to Eagle Island, 10 miles to the SE. The wind usually kicks-up whitecap waves at 15 knots, but we have another sign—Mollie’s ears pointed upwards. Mollie has great sea legs and our aft cockpit provides a pretty secure playpen for her.

Eagle Island is one of the largest (2.75 miles long) islands off the McBean Channel. It has a large harbor and only NE winds create any fetch. Watch out for the deadheads below marked cleverly by a GLCC boater with a milk jug. The island has a tuck away cove where trailer sailors can fit snugly and where we can dinghy ashore to explore. Mollie was swimming and retrieving sticks in the water but then spotted these frogs and wanted to play. “Watch out,” says that frog…….

There were a number of Loopers and GLCC boaters sharing the anchorage with us. I do not usually mention their names or do pictures this year but I will make an exception as Bayfield boaters will know this couple-- Dave and Sue Chase on Old Sam Peabody—no, not their beautiful sailboat that they had in the Apostle Islands, but a Grand Banks 32 just like our boat. They have been cruising the North Channel for years and had so many helpful tips about the islands and our boat. We had a regular Grand Banks 32 rendezvous and boat love fest when Catnip from Gore Bay also stopped by to chat. We all agreed that this is the perfect boat to do the North Channel. It’s a small world.

Laurier Island 8-9-11

We have finally loaded in all our GPS ports and anchorage waypoints into the “Looper Locator” top section of this blog so you can get a Google Earth view of where we have been so far this summer. You’ll notice that we’ve been all over the North Channel east, then west, then east again in a seemingly confused pattern. This is partially true as we are meandering, but we’re also covering the bigger anchorages in the western area before we head east again to the very popular ones. The legendary anchorages (the Benjamins, Covered Portage, and Baie Fin) are pretty full right now with boaters on vacation and we have the luxury of time.

We have crisscrossed the beautiful Whaleback Channel a number of times. It is spectacular on a clear blue sky day as the dark pines, steep granite sloped islands and clear blue water stand out in vivid contrast. It is regarded as one of the most beautiful passages in the world. I think it’s time for another camera next year as my little Nikon CoolPix cannot capture the beauty of this incredible place. Here’s a picture of the “whale” in the Whaleback.

Our destination today is Laurier Island, located east by Little Detroit Narrows and about 2 miles from the town of Spanish. It’s not as scenic as the other islands that we’ve visited but has something very special—great fishing. The island is low and grassy which makes it a magnet for pike and bass. All the locals come here regularly to try their luck, and it was fun to meet them and get more tips on special anchorages. I think it’s time to consider adding fishing gear onboard, but Bob tells me I have to do the gutting. Some boaters anchor their boats here and simply take their dinghies into Spanish for a beer run. There is an island for everyone out here in the North Channel.

Bob may be reluctant to gut fish, but tonight he was a regular Rambo with the outside spiders. It was a cool night with few mosquitoes, so we headed outside fortified with flashlights, fly swatter, paper towels and maybe a little wine. This was a “take no prisoners” raid with me finding the critters with the flashlight and Bob swooping down with the swatter. By the end of the night, we were crunching them with relish with our bare hands and giving a commando hoot as we notched 40 kills on our belts. We are pretty non-violent folks but this was needed to take back OUR boat.

Great Lakes Marauders 8-10-11

I’ve been doing a lot of entries lately about the beauty of the North Channel of Lake Huron, and you are probably wondering where is the drama, everything can’t be so great. You are right--I have not been totally honest with you, my faithful readers.

There is a lurking presence that stalks us by night and dares us to find it amongst the hundreds of hidey holes on the boat. It leaves a spun dream catcher the next morning but is long gone. It knows that we can’t use pesticides this year as we have a puppy, and sometimes I expect that they are scouting out Mollie, too.

We try to make a truce with them by suggesting that they stay outside and help themselves to all the flies and mosquitoes that they can catch, but leave us in peace inside the cabin. Sounds like a fair deal but they are not to be trusted and quickly renege on the deal and surreptitiously outflank us night after night.

We’ve picked up boatloads of these pests from Michigan to Canada. Sometimes we feel that we are running a cruise ship for them as they party night after night and are not even interested in catching a good share of the bountiful flies and mosquitoes.

Their absolutely favorite haunt is the bow pulpit and anchor locker which is located right over our bed. No wonder I go to bed at night with a flashlight to check if I am having company. Bob, was that you tickling my leg???????

Calm at the End of the Storm 8-10-11

The day started pretty meekly with 10 knots of wind and partly sunny skies. Environment Canada (Canada’s national weather service) was forecasting 30 knots by the afternoon with water spouts, but hard to believe when things look so calm. Many a captain ventured out today, even a little trailer sailor family with a reluctant wife and 2 kids under age 5. Then the wind and rain hit with a one/two punch at 3p.m. howling out of the west with 25-30-35 knots of wind. The North Channel is more protected than open Lake Huron, but even the Channel was showing 6+ foot waves at the buoy.

The marine radio was alive with broadcasts of a sailboat going aground, anchors dragging in island anchorages and a powerboat hitting a reef. Canadian Coast Guard was sorting all of this out, and luckily boaters were helping other boaters. It is a small community and every boater knows that the next time it could be them in an emergency situation.

These are the same winds that we had 7/17 in Government Bay when our anchor dragged 200 feet on a very stormy, scary night. Today was a different story as we took shelter in the Spanish marina as we were betting that the EC forecast was correct. Hearing that banshee wind howling goes to your core wherever you are, but today all we had to do was take down our bimini top so that it would not get bent.

At the end of the storm, Mother Nature offers a bit of an apology by displaying a fantastic rainbow.

John Harbour 8-8-11

We weighed anchor at 11a.m. on 8/6 to head east back through the Whalesback Channel for 6 miles to John Harbour, formed by Gowan, Dewdney and John Islands. The Great Lakes Cruising Club (GLCC) rates anchorages and this one gets the designation of “beautiful anchorage” and we would definitely agree. It has 2 deep-water anchorages, is very well-protected, and even has a fully enclosed cove (Cleary) for shallow draft boats.

Each anchorage has its own unique personality and feel. John Harbour stretches long and elegantly through higher rock cliffs, covered by a deep pine forest that hides blueberry patches and mushrooms. During our 2 nights here, there were only 7 other boats anchored, spread out over 2 miles so each had a more solitary experience.

Our bodies and minds are really unwinding after 3 weeks up here in the North Channel. I cannot remember a time in my adult life when I’ve been this relaxed. It’s like going back to care-free childhood days filled with swimming, reading, playing games and making new friends. Life is good.

Turnbull and Sanford Islands and Blind River 8-6-11

With a forecast of rain for all day on 8/3, we decided to head further west past the end of the Whaleback Channel to the Town of Blind River. Rainy days are good for getting boating tasks done in port (provisioning, laundry, pump-outs, etc.) as well as a chance to get Wi-Fi, catch-up with boaters we’ve met at various anchorages and stretch our legs with long walks and bike rides. Blind River Marina is relatively new with floating docks and a very helpful staff who helped us dock in 15 knot winds. The marina also provides loaner bikes with big baskets which came in handy for the 2 mile trek to town. There is an M&M Meat Shop here which carries a catalog full of frozen meats—just perfect for packing our tiny freezer in our small fridge.

Fog engulfed us the next morning, but lifted by 11 a.m. so we cast-off for Turnbull Island, east about 8 miles. The u-shaped harbor is formed by Turnbull/Bassett Islands to the north, east and southeast, and a bracelet of unnamed islands fill in the west to give full protection with a mud bottom and plenty of depth.

Here’s a picture of Baby Grand at anchor. You’ll notice our riding sail which keeps us pointed into the wind and we swing less back and forth. If you zoom in, you can see our blue aft awning which we can set-up in 10 minutes with a front track, a rear pole, and side bungees. It has flaps all around that can be raised or lowered. This awning has really kept us cool all summer. Baby Grand is an 1985 boat without tinted windows but we cut the heat down by adding phifertex sunscreens. All of these, as well as our flybridge bimini, were made by Jim Wilinski of Ship Shape Products in Duluth, MN and we highly recommend him.

This small archipelago of islands is another great place for dinghy exploration. We’re told it’s a pretty good place to fish for pike and bass. GLCC developed a campsite just perfect for going ashore and having a campfire. Here we are on Sanford (“Clara”) Island looking for interesting rocks. The island was habited by a gang of marauding boars in the 1980’s but no sightings today.