Journey to Marathon 1-23-09

After the excitement with Pandora’s Box, we set a course of 178 degrees for Marathon, the most southerly port of our Great Loop adventure. Winds were 10-15 mph with a 1 foot chop and we were able to do 8.5 mph on this 47 mile trip today.

We played many rounds of “dodgepot” today as we weaved through the crab pot fields, and occasionally we could see who was “serving” when we came upon crabber boats.

The trip was fast and uneventful today but that changed when we entered Florida Bay and the water changed to a light green and we could see the Seven Mile Bridge connecting Pigeon, Monkey and Sunshine Keys. After zig zagging through some final crab pots and the Red Bay Banks, we headed under the bridge and into the Hawk Channel which is the Atlantic Ocean side of the Keys.

We stopped at Poncho’s Fuel for Valvtect diesel ($2.65) then under the Boot Key bascule bridge of 26 feet and on to Sombrero Resort Marina where we will be for a month. This will be a great stop as it has a pool onsite, a beach a few miles away, Publix and West Marine which are always high on our list, and we’ve just been told that everybody on the dock meets at 5pm. Stay tuned.

Finding Pandora’s Box 1-23-09

We were not sure that this was a boat when we first saw its outline near the shores of Little Shark River. Is it an RV? Are there roads over to this desolate part of the Everglades? No—I think it’s a boat. It’s a camper mounted on a pontoon boat with a dinghy boat filled with coolers, gas cans and “stuff.” We thought this guy is definitely headed south to Key West.

Imagine our surprise when we were leaving the Shark River anchorage this morning and heard the Coast Guard asking if anyone had sited the boat, Pandora’s Box. They were about to deploy helicopters to search for him. As we listened more to the alert, we figured out that it had to be the above boat. It seems that his mother reported him missing after being overdue 3 days. The Coast Guard wanted to know his location and ascertain if he needed help.

We were ½ mile south of him and called Pandora’s Box on Channel 16. The boater answered promptly that he could hear the CG transmissions but they were not receiving his from his low voltage radio. He seemed embarrassed about all the fuss and assured us that he was fine and was headed to the Keys. We relayed all the above to the CG.

Any mother looking at this “boat” would be worried. Rest assured Gary’s mom that your son is fine and having the adventure of his life, but keep up your prayers.

Quiet in the Everglades (Little Shark River) 1-22-09

It was 36 degrees this morning at 7:40am when we headed south to Little Shark River in the Everglades, 62 miles away. We had really sloppy seas left over from the high winds from the past few days but today’s trip was very doable. We cruised at 8.3 mph and got a tidal boost of .5 which really helped. We set the autohelm for 158 degrees but then set it for 120 to avoid Romeo Point Reef and then to 134 degrees for Little Shark River. For some as yet unknown reason, the GPS had a slight “coffee break” when we were doing this so we had to be vigilant. It’s back operating now after some incantations and pleadings.

The Gulf flattened out after noon and the water changed to a lighter green which gave us a hint that we were getting closer to the Keys. We saw only 3 boats on this entire trip so imagine our surprise when we pulled into our anchorage in the Everglades at Little Shark River and found 7 other boats, mostly sailboats.

It was great to share this special anchorage with the surrounding boats. There were no generators, dinghy motors or loud music. Everyone seemed to have the same awe for this quiet place and wanted to listen to nature and watch the sun set. If you come here, we would recommend that you anchor in the main river channel as you will get a better sunset picture and have good depths. We were in the side channel and had enough depth in the morning but we could also see birds in shallow water 25 yards away.

38 Degrees on Marco Island 1-21-09

Any boater hearing the name Marco Island remembers its dubious history as the place where local ordinances were enacted to restrict boats from anchoring so that local waterfront property owners could have unobstructed views. Thanks to the organized civil disobedience by local boaters in 2006 and lawsuits in 2007, this ordinance was struck down by a Collier County judge and this gave notice to other FL communities that boaters have rights also.

We thought about anchoring in solidarity with a few sailboats perched off the end of our marina, but with 38 degrees forecasted with 25-30 knot winds and the Gulf showing 6-10 foot seas, we wanted to be safe and snug at a dock, We are at Marina at Factory Bay for 4 nights awaiting a weather window to start heading south to the Keys. This is a clear water marina which means that gray water discharge is prohibited but free laundry facilities and clean restrooms are provided. Marina staff, Curtis and Neal, are very helpful.

We were blanketed from some of the wind and cold by the gated hi-rise condos on shore. Marco Island is an impeccably manicured tropical island with lush foliage everywhere, but with the frost expected, gardeners are putting covers on the more fragile annuals. We do that too in MN but that’s in September and the current cover is tons of snow. This was a surreal place to watch the Obama Inauguration.

Snook’s Inn is just a short walk or bike ride from the marina and offers a fantastic salad bar with lunch and dinner entrees. The marina is less than a mile from a real boaters shopping center offering a West Marine, ATM and a Publix supermarket—what more do you need.

Nice Easy Open Water Day to Marco Island 1-18-09

Today was the easiest open water crossing that we have done on the Loop. We left Ft. Meyers Beach at 8am with 54 degrees with cloudy skies and a slight chop and the day progressed to sunny 72 degrees and almost flat calm. We were offshore about 2-5 miles in 20-25 feet of water which was a nice change from the skinny water we’ve had. Best news—only a few crab pots on our 42 mile trip today.

It was so calm today that I could make an Amsterdam Apple Pancake in the oven. Here’s Bob devouring it. Our trip today took us past the hi-rises on Bonita Beach, Wiggins Pass, and Naples and then the more open beaches of Keewaydin Island where boats were anchoring.

Fast diving dolphins greeted us at the entrance to Marco Island where we will be staying at the Marina at Factory Bay (with Boat US discount, $1.80 per foot). The marina has been closed to transients for 6 months to upgrade their electric but it is now open. We will be here a few days to wait for the fronts to go through which also allows us to watch all the Obama festivities.

With wide streets and less car traffic than Ft. Meyers Beach, Marco Island is a great place to bike ride. Our collapsible bikes are already off the flybridge and ready for a ride tomorrow morning all around this 4 by 6 mile island.

Alligators, Anhingas and Egrets…oh my 1-17-09

We had hoped to take off today for Marco Island on our way southward to the Keys but the winds and seas made us pause. We were very ready including an ok from our diver who checked our hull and found no barnacles and the zincs and thru hulls were good.

What a nice surprise when Frank and Phyllis called us and invited us to tour the Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary. It is 13,000 acres of cypress forests, pine flatwoods and wet prairie land filled with hundreds of species of birds and animals and has long been the last island of natural habitat in the entire region. The area is accessible through a 2 ½ mile boardwalk that takes you through natural habitat while you quietly listen for birds and look for larger critters. Here are a few pictures of the birds we saw—anhinga and egret. Look closely in the 3rd picture—can you see the large alligator hiding there.

We topped off the day with a shrimp feed at Saint Raphael Episcopal Church. What a great assortment of food as well as such pleasant company. Thank you, Frank and Phyllis.

People Who Inspire Us 1-15-09

I would like to introduce you to Frank and Phyllis, a sailing couple we have known since the 1980’s from our home port of Bayfield WI on Lake Superior. They are 80+ years young and are still aboard their 1970’s vintage 32’ Pearson sailboat, PJ. They are an even-keeled couple who do not sweat the small stuff and know how to enjoy life. In the Apostle Islands, Frank and Phyllis were well known as personable, helpful folks with great sailing acumen.

In the mid 1990’s, they led the way for many of us by taking PJ on a 3 year sailing adventure that led them here to FL. Bob and I have had a similar dream for years, but when you are knee deep in the responsibilities of parenting, work and home, it is easy to forget about future plans, but our periodic contact with Frank and Phyllis would rekindle the spark of adventure. They will always be our poster couple of ageless cruisers who really exemplify the credo of their favorite T-shirt, “Life is Good.”

We spent today with Frank and Phyllis and their delightful granddaughter, Gretchen, touring the Edison and Ford Winter Estates in Fort Meyers. This is a must see tour when you are in this area and it offers something for everyone—lush gardens and huge Banyan trees, FL architecture at its best, museum pieces of Edison and Ford’s inventions and a chance to renew your knowledge of these incredible men who changed our world.

Thomas Alva Edison was born in 1847 in Ohio. He had a lot of difficulty with school and his teachers wondered if he could learn. His mother decided to home school him and encouraged him in his constant questioning of how things worked. He set up a lab in the basement and bought chemicals from his profits selling newspapers on the train at age 12, and continued his experimentations at age 16 with knowledge from his job as a telegraph operator.

He was a workaholic throughout his life, required only 4 hours sleep nightly and really exemplified his credo, “Invention is 1% inspiration and 99% perspiration.” Edison is responsible for so many of the underpinnings of our daily lives with light, sound and power technologies (electric lights, dynamos, phonograph, motion picture film and technology, first electric car battery). Edison held thousands of patents, had a major invention every 6 months and minor ones every 10 days. It is pretty amazing that he developed the phonograph since he himself was 80% deaf.

Edison and Ford were like-minded inventors who enjoyed each others company and enjoyed being neighbors here in Ft. Meyers. Ford had worked in an Edison plant, had developed his Model T prototype, and was encouraged to pursue his dreams by Edison. Years later, Edison became intrigued with finding a botanical alternative to rubber for American cars so that the US would not be dependent on foreign sources which he foresaw as crippling in the event of war or calamity. He devoted his last years to this pursuit, and even though the DuPont company came up with a chemical alternative, neoprene, Edison’s botanical experiments led to other discoveries.

That's what 0ur world really needs right now-- more Edisons and Fords, people with imagination, perseverance and a can do attitude to examine our complex energy problems and come up with creative solutions.

Fort Meyers Beach 1-14-09

Tuesday, 1-13 was a rock and rollin’ day of wind and rain here at Fort Meyers Beach. It was a good day to do oodles of laundry and get to those darn inside jobs that you postpone all the time. When the wind kicked up to 20 knots, it was time for Bob to batten down the boat with more fenders and lines.

At 4:30pm, there was an urgent call to the Coast Guard that an unoccupied anchored boat had broken loose and was heading down the channel towards our marina. We were all tuned in to Channel 22 to root for the Coasties to save our neighborhood, and with some delays, they did. Why is it important to get the exact color (“white”, “off white”, “beige”) of the boat when they know the location before they deploy a rescue party?

The storm ushered in a “cold” front to FL. My dear readers in the Upper Midwest will gladly trade places with any Floridian who is complaining about an overnight low of above 45 degrees. The newspapers here all feature pictures of proud frozen Midwesterners withstanding below zero temps with stoic Scandinavian aplomb. We salute you but we would not trade places with you right now. Get on a plane and come here quickly. Your life may depend upon it.

We bundled up in solidarity with you and headed out to the beach. Do you like Bob’s pirate look—Johnny Depp watch out! We walked down to Bowditch Point Park which is a nature preserve and we met this curious 15" Gopher tortoise. We stopped for ice cream to further cool down and really feel the cold. Their beach signpost logged Duluth as 1,769 miles away but we have cruised 3,000 miles so far—so much for the inefficiency of boat travel.

We had Captains' Meeting at the marina boaters' lounge. There is a lot of wisdom here and plenty of advice to solve all boating problems. Here's a picture of Jim and Sandy from Footloose.

2 Bridge Day to Fort Meyers Beach 1-12-09

We got a little later start today due to the diver chain adventure but it was well worth it. 20 feet of chain and 20 feet of rode could have done a lot of damage to Rose’s Pick but luckily a disaster was averted.

Today’s journey was pleasant and we passed the prime cruising areas of Gasparilla Sound, Charlotte Harbor, Pelican Pass, the private island of Useppa, Pine Island Sound, Captiva and Sanibel Islands. I wish we had more time to explore this whole area but since we want to get down to the Keys and are hoping to get out to the Bahamas, we will not be able to explore all these interesting ports now by boat. There was far less boat traffic on this Monday on the GIWW today as the retirees were now onboard.

We were greeted by dolphins today that frolicked in our bow wave and delighted us with their antics. We came to the end of the GIWW today when we went under the Sanibel Causeway Bridge. We passed through the narrow opening into Fort Meyers Beach which took us almost right on the beach but did provide adequate depths. We are staying at Moss Marine and at $1.25 per foot, it is a good deal.

Loose Your Anchor Chain and Rode? 1-12-09

I know that a number of Looper boats lost their anchor, chain and/or rode in some pretty hairy circumstances on the rivers. Imagine Rose and Gary’s surprise when they hired a diver to check out a little “noise” on their boat, Rose’s Pick, and he came up with this hunk of metal today. I know one creative Looper who thought she would add a super magnet to help retrieve anything that might go overboard. Gary must have activated his super duper magnet, aka propeller, that swept up this vintage anchor system from the deep around the Blackburn Bridge yesterday. Gary is entertaining all offers and points given for the most creative use.