Here’s another island retreat where you are guaranteed to have a good time. We were headed out of Charlevoix on 7/12 to Mackinaw City about 15 miles out when the predicted winds and waves of 10-15 and 2-3 increased to 18-22 and 4+ respectively so we set an alternate course for shelter at Beaver Island and Paradise Bay. There is anchoring room in this beautiful harbor, but with a seasick puppy, we decided to go to a dock.Beaver Island Marina is a private, bit rundown marina that takes reservations but has the phone number of the non-reservation, updated Beaver Island Municipal Marina in the official State of Michigan Harbor Guide--very confusing. Both are $1.18 per foot, and despite being duped into staying at Beaver Island Marina, we opted to stay for 2 days as the staff are very helpful, docks are lower, closer proximity to town, great local boaters and car rentals are available.
You notice immediately the Irish flags flying proudly on Beaver Island, the Gaelic surnames on the street and shop signs, the Irish music playing and everyone waving “Hello” to you. This is Michigan’s Emerald Isle with a dramatic connection to the Auld Sod and Arranmore Island in particular. An Englishman, John Charley, bought that island in 1851 and evicted his 163 Irish tenants that day, forcing them to emigrate to America and eventually to this island which reminded them so much of home.
Beaver Island has an even more colorful Mormon connection with a saga that rivals any script for the HBO series,Big Love. After the Mormon founder, Joseph Smith, died, his two disciples split with Brigham Young taking his followers to Utah and James Strang staying on Beaver Island and declaring himself “King.” It was a surreal life—dressing his second wife as a man and pretending she was his nephew, marrying three more wives and finally being assassinated.
Today Beaver Island is unspoiled, unhurried and unique with loads to offer. There are car ferries and airline service ($42.) from Charlevoix, 2 campgrounds and plenty of house rentals. The town of St. James is laid-back, not gaudy touristy and your provisioning needs are easily handled at McDonough’s Market and Powers Hardware Stores. Stony Acres is a great lunch stop.
You can tour the Maritime Museum and learn about the islands history as the greatest fishing ground for trout and whitefish until the lamprey eel in the 1950’s reeked havoc. The Toy Museum and Art Gallery was fun and we enjoyed its miniature garden and playhouse. There are miles of walking and bike trails and we liked the Gull Harbour area. We rented a Geo Tracker and toured 40 miles on narrow “boreen” gravel roads through the forest as well as Donegal Bay (see Mollie look for fish), Kelly Point, McCouley Point and the Beaver Island Lighthouse. We celebrated the end of 2 perfect days by the turquoise waters at Beaver Island Lodge.
We are putting Beaver Island on our annual Must-do ports on our way to the North Channel of Lake Huron.
